Pull up all the slack from the follower, then push a bight of rope through the device (making sure the climber’s side is in the top, brake side on bottom), and clip the rounded biner through the cable on the device and the bight of rope (D). This will be where the brake strand comes out, while the climber’s strand goes into the top (C). Clip a rounded or non-rounded biner through the master point and then the large loop, called the anchor attachment point, on the device (A), which will be oriented with the friction grooves down (B). To set up the auto-blocking device, she just needs two locking biners and the belay device at least one of the biners needs to have a smooth and rounded shape with no edges. The leader reaches the belay stance and builds an anchor with a master point. Please read all manufacturer’s directions and information before using any device. *Editor’s Note: This setup is appropriate for standard auto-blocking tube-style belay devices, but there are several unique models on the market that require their own rigging method. It’s a must-have tool and technique for anyone who wants to tackle multi-pitch climbs. This setup, which is also called “guide mode,” automatically stops the rope from moving through the device-or “catches” the follower-if he falls. Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows the leader to go almost hands-free while safely bringing the follower up to his stance. Exchanging gear, restacking the rope, eating, drinking, and whatever else you might need to handle at the belay stance can really burn away those precious daylight hours, so it’s crucial to be as efficient as possible. Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members!īelay transitions can be the real time-suck of multi-pitch climbing.
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